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Hi there the best way to do this is emulsion the ceiling and walls first(cover all the big areas first) you usely need to have 2 coats. then finish with your gloss by cutting it into the emulsion. sorry should have told you to make sure all the areas are free from dust, above doors and along skirtings. hope this helps.

Substructure's right if you want a 100% finish... how ever if cost is an issue then simply get all paper off, sugersoap is ok to clean paste, but i've always applied a white vinyl matt base coat straight after stripping then leave the walls for 24 hours to dry. once dry the white base coat will seal the paste back and stop paste contaminating further coats applied. filling and scraping is done on top of this base coat and being white it'll highlight all bad areas. i've always done this system and never had a problem with the paste... good luck tim

Hi novice_40, firstly, best of luck with your project - i hope you enjoy it. newly plastered walls/ceilings always need to be suitably sealed before painting begins (otherwise the paint will sit on the surface & come off very easily). you can do this either by applying a couple of emulsion 'mist coats' (dilute an initial solution of 60:40 water to emulsion, then a second mist coat with the ratios reversed, to thicken the coverage but still watery enough to allow it to continue to sink into the plaster below). or, as tom suggests, you can buy a purpose made primer. if the plasterer has 'over polished' the walls, this latter option will be the best, as the plaster will not allow the mist coat to seep in & adhere properly. if you have a large area/several walls, then the most cost effective way for you will be the mist coats - these are industry standards and a perfectly acceptable method. ordinary white emulsion is suitable and both affordable & easily available. start misting from the lowest point on the plaster and move up & out with your roller. the mist coat dries rapidly & this bottom up method stops you getting fat splashes of paint onto the plaster. cut in around the edges with a brush. if the ceiling is also bare, then progress onto the ceiling. within the hour, your walls will be ready for the second mist coat. apply this in the same order as the first. a word of caution: even with the best intentions, mist coats can involve a bit of splashing, so make sure your flooring is protected & the sockets temporarily turned off & covered. once the 2 mist coats have fully dried you can more easily assess the plasterer's handiwork. use a spatula to fill any minor dents & give these a light sanding, once cured. anything major & get the plasterer back to resolve it. you don't want to be sanding down large areas of plaster, as this will cause a rough & spoilt finish that will need copious filling & sanding to put right. now, use a proper water-based wood primer for your bare woodwork - for the same reasons as you need to seal fresh plaster. a primer-undercoat is perfectly suitable - though you will need 2 coats: one to prime, a second to undercoat. a third coat is optional, but we'll get to that in a mo. alternatively, you can buy 2 separate paints: one a specified wood primer & the second a specified undercoat. whilst the primer should be water-based, the undercoat can be oil-based - though only if your satinwood is also oil-based. this method can improve the longevity of the finish. once your primer/first layer of primer-undercoat is dry, caulk your woodwork. next, move back to your ceiling/walls. this time begin with the ceiling (either silk or matt are suitable finishes - but silk is a more reflective surface that draws the eye & can accentuate any imperfections). get your first coat on. cut in free-hand, moving your brush from 1/2 inch away from the corner inwards towards the join as your hand steadies & finds the line. don't try to leap straight into the corner unless you've got a steady hand. whether you cut in before or after rollering is down to personal preference. i prefer beforehand as it avoids a visible 'tram line' created by dragging your brush through a rollered section. whichever you choose, ensure you keep a wet edge (ie: don't allow the paint to dry between cutting in & rollering). allow the edges to dry, then move down to the walls. get your first coat of dulux endurance on. cut in free-hand. once dried, repeat the process for your second coats. if you are prepared to wait up to a couple of days between coats (dep. on drying conditions) for the paint to fully cure, you can use (yellow) frog tape to help you achieve a clean line between surfaces. be very careful when removing it however, as this can pull the paint back off if it isn't fully cured. finally, give your woodwork a light sanding to remove any splashes of paint & nibs of rough wood fibres. ideally, apply another undercoat, to improve the coverage & durability, then (when dry) apply your satinwood top coat. again, if you're happy the walls have cured sufficiently, frog tape can give you a razor sharp line where the satinwood meets the emulsion. take care when peeling it away. there you have it! any questions, feel free to give me a holla. meantime, i hope this helps. happy painting! best, alix james decorators

Hi there, i am a painter and decorator by trade with plastering and tiling skills. when new plaster is first applied i always cover it with a layer of pva first. once this has dried i will apply the first coat and let that dry for 24 hrs. the second coat is then applied. over the last however many years, this method has always produced a long lasting finish. dulux is a good paint product but i am starting to favor some of the crown products that are now being released. if i can be of any help then please feel free to contact me.