Brooks Brothers

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For the English pop duo, see The Brook Brothers.

Brooks Brothers
TypePrivate
IndustryRetail
Fashion
FoundedApril 7, 1818; 204 years ago (1818-04-07) (as H. & D. H. Brooks & Co.)
Manhattan, New York City, New York, U.S.
FounderHenry Sands Brooks
HeadquartersManhattan, New York City, New York, U.S.
Number of locations
170 (2021)
Key people
Ken Ohashi (CEO), Michael Bastian (Creative director)
ProductsLuxury clothing, accessories and home furnishings
OwnersAuthentic Brands Group
ParentSPARC Group LLC[1]
Websitebrooksbrothers.com

Brooks Brothers, founded in Manhattan, New York City in 1818, is the oldest apparel brand in continuous operation in America.[2] Originally a family business, Brooks Brothers produces clothing for men, women and children, as well as home furnishings.

As a result of store closures and poor online sales due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the company filed for bankruptcy protection in July 2020.[3] Brooks Brothers announced in August 2020 that it would be purchased by Authentic Brands Group and by SPARC Group LLC (Simon Properties Authentic Retail Concepts Group LLC), a joint venture between Authentic Brands Group and Simon Property Group.[1][4]

History[edit]

Founding and 19th century[edit]

On April 7, 1818, at the age of 45, Henry Sands Brooks (1772–1833) opened H. & D. H. Brooks & Co. on the northeast corner of Catherine and Cherry streets in Manhattan. He proclaimed that his guiding principle was, "To make and deal only in merchandise of the finest body, to sell it at a fair profit, and to deal with people who seek and appreciate such merchandise."[5] In 1833, his four sons, Elisha, Daniel, Edward, and John, inherited the family business and in 1850 renamed the company "Brooks Brothers."[6]


The first Brooks clothier store, at Catharine Street in Manhattan, 1845

In its early history, Brooks Brothers was known for introducing the ready-to-wear suit to American customers. In the mid-nineteenth century, Brooks Brothers outfitted United States President Abraham Lincoln and considered him a loyal customer.[7] At his second inauguration, Lincoln wore a coat specially crafted for him by Brooks Brothers. Hand-stitched into the coat's lining was a design featuring an eagle and the inscription, "One Country, One Destiny." He was wearing the coat and a Brooks Brothers suit when he was assassinated.[8][9] As a supplier of soldiers' uniforms during the Civil War, Brooks Brothers became a target of outrage for its allegedly shoddy production. With a contract from New York State to supply uniforms for the New York Volunteers, Brooks Brothers took shredded and sometimes decaying rags, glued them together and stitched them into uniforms. They would fall apart in the rain and were the subject of ridicule from other regiments.[10]

20th century[edit]

The last member of the Brooks family to head the company was Winthrop Holly Brooks, who ran the company from 1935 until its sale in 1946, when the company was acquired by Julius Garfinckel & Co. Although Winthrop Brooks remained with the company as a figurehead after the acquisition, John C. Wood became the director of Brooks Brothers. Just prior to that, Wood had been the carrier of the papers for the Dumbarton Oaks Conference.[11] Under the leadership of Wood, Brooks Brothers became even more traditional. Wood notably stated "They call us conservative, but we think that our styles are simply lacking the bizarre. We deal in what a man should wear, not what some women think he should wear."[12]

Brooks Brothers logo, ca. 1969

By 1971, eleven Brooks Brothers stores were in operation and located in Manhattan, Chicago, Boston, San Francisco, Pittsburgh, Los Angeles, Atlanta, Washington, D.C., and St. Louis as an integral part of the retail conglomerate Garfinckel, Brooks Brothers, Miller & Rhoads, Inc., that held the company until 1981 when it was acquired by Allied Stores.

Ralph Lauren started out as a salesman at the Brooks Brothers Madison Avenue store.[13] Brooks Brothers later sued Polo Ralph Lauren to retain its rights to the original polo button-down collar shirt.

Brooks Brothers was acquired by the British firm, Marks & Spencer, in 1988. In the mid 1990s, the company's executives removed the signature Golden Fleece logo from the brand's cotton knit polo shirts, though it was later restored.[14]

In 2001, Marks & Spencer sold Brooks Brothers to Retail Brand Alliance ("RBA"), now known as The Brooks Brothers Group, a company privately owned by Italian billionaire Claudio del Vecchio (son of Luxottica founder Leonardo del Vecchio).[15] Along with Brooks Brothers, RBA comprised Carolee, a designer of jewelry for department stores and specialty stores.[16] In 2007, RBA sold its high end women's brand Adrienne Vittadini.

21st century[edit]

As of 2015, there were 210 Brooks Brothers stores in the United States and 70 in other countries, including Australia, India, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Korea, Japan, China, France, Spain, the United Kingdom, Chile, Canada, Panama, Italy, the Philippines, Poland, Mexico, UAE, Peru, Singapore, Switzerland,[17] Indonesia, Malaysia, Greece, and Vietnam. In 1998, Brooks Brothers launched its official website. Headquartered on New York's Madison Avenue, United States flagship stores are in Manhattan,[18] San Francisco,[19] Chicago, Boston, and Beverly Hills.[citation needed]

Brooks Brothers at 7 East 44th Street in Manhattan

Most of its clothing is now imported, but some suits, sport coats, shirts and accessories are manufactured in the United States. Many of its mid-range "1818" line of suits are manufactured at Brooks Brothers' Southwick plant in Haverhill, Massachusetts.[20] All Brooks Brothers necktie silk is woven in England or Italy, and the ties still are "cut and piled" at the Brooks Brothers' tie factory in Long Island City, New York. Brooks also has a series of books on etiquette and manners for ladies and gentlemen. Its higher-end label is the Golden Fleece line which features suits that are tailored in the United States.[21]

In September 2007, Brooks Brothers' then CEO, Claudio Del Vecchio, announced the unveiling of a new high-end collection of men's and women's wear named Black Fleece. Del Vecchio announced that the first star guest designer for the new collection would be New York menswear designer Thom Browne.[22] Black Fleece received so much critical and commercial success that Brooks Brothers opened a stand-alone Black Fleece boutique on Bleecker Street in the Winter of 2008. Brooks Brothers recently released a line of clothing catering to Asian clientele.[23]

Brooks Brothers store on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, California

In 2008, the company began an extensive renovation of its flagship store at 346 Madison Avenue.[24] In January 2009, Brooks Brothers closed a smaller location at Fifth Avenue and 53rd Street in Manhattan.[citation needed]

In April 2010, Brooks Brothers launched a line of luxury home furnishings which includes bedding, bath towels, as well as living room décor and entertaining accessories.

Between 2017 and 2019, sales stagnated at around $1 billion due to business fashion turning more casual and online competition.[25] This strain is due in part to changing market tastes, although the COVID-19 pandemic is a contributing factor. In May 2020, it was reported that Brooks Brothers was seeking a buyer. Reports also suggest the company was exploring a bankruptcy filing.[26] In June, the company proposed closing its three American factories, “a dramatic move for a brand that has really hung their hat on ‘Made in America.”[25] Claudio Del Vecchio, the 63-year-old Italian industrialist responsible for acquiring the factory in Massachusetts, said that the U.S. factories never made any money and that the brand carries a debt of less than $300 million.[25]

Bankruptcy filing and sale[edit]

On July 8, 2020, it was reported the company was filing for Chapter 11 bankruptcy due to declining sales and the economic impact of the COVID-19 pandemic. Brooks Brothers planned to close 51 of its 250 locations in North America.[3]

On August 11, 2020, Brooks Brothers announced that it would be sold for $325 million to brand development firm Authentic Brands Group and to SPARC Group LLC, a joint venture between Authentic Brands Group and shopping mall operator Simon Property Group.[1] The new owners committed to continue operating at least 125 Brooks Brothers retail locations in the US, and more worldwide (down from 424 global locations before the COVID-19 pandemic).[4] The transaction was completed in September 2020.[27][28] Ken Ohashi was also appointed as President and Chief Executive Officer in September 2020.[29]

On December 1, 2020, designer Michael Bastian was named as the brand's creative director.[30]

Prior 8 jul 2020's bankruptcy : some brooks-brothers' clothes , use supima-cotton , then spinning-and-dyeing/coloring-and-weaving-phase is in albinigroup.com[31] which convert supima-cotton to fabric then garland-shirt-company do sewing-job to convert that fabric to many shirt[32][33][34].

Outfitting American presidents and military[edit]

Brooks Brothers has outfitted 41 of the 46 American Presidents.[7] United States President Ulysses S. Grant began his association with Brooks Brothers during the Civil War, when he ordered tailored uniforms for the Union officers.[7] President Theodore Roosevelt was fond of Brooks Brothers' clothes; he even ordered his dress uniform for the Spanish–American War at Brooks Brothers. Many more presidents, including Chester Arthur, Herbert Hoover, Franklin Roosevelt, John F. Kennedy, Richard Nixon, Gerald Ford, George H. W. Bush, Bill Clinton, and Barack Obama were known to wear Brooks Brothers clothing lines.[9] Franklin Roosevelt wore a Brooks Brothers collared cape and fedora at the Yalta Conference in 1945.[35]

In the late nineteenth century, Brooks Brothers tailored many distinctive uniforms for elite regiments of the New York National Guard, as well as uniforms for New York state troops and Union officers during the Civil War.[36] Several Generals including Ulysses S. Grant, William Sherman, Joseph Hooker and Philip Sheridan purchased uniforms from Brooks Brothers. [37]

The Golden Fleece symbol was adopted as the company's trademark in 1850. A wooly sheep suspended in a ribbon had long been a symbol of British woolen merchants. Dating from the fifteenth century, the image had been the emblem of the Knights of the Golden Fleece, founded by Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy. In classical Greek mythology, a magical flying ram, or Golden Fleece, was sought by Jason and the Argonauts.[38]

Clothing innovations[edit]

Although today many people consider Brooks Brothers a very traditional clothier, the company introduced many clothing advances to the American market throughout its history as a leader in the American menswear industry:

Brooks Brothers did not make an off-the-rack black suit between 1865 and 2003.[57] For many years, a myth circulated that the reason the company did not make black suits out of deference to Abraham Lincoln who wore a bespoke black Brooks frock coat, a gift from the company, when he was assassinated. It is not clear if this policy was the result or cause of the traditional American fashion rule that black suits in daytime for men are proper only for servants and when honoring the deceased.[58]

Notable customers[edit]

A 2007 display in a Brooks Brothers store

Sports[edit]

Brooks Brothers is a sponsor and the official suit designers and distributors of Italian football club Inter Milan.[59] From 2010 to 2019, the company was a sponsor and official apparel supplier of the Head of the Charles Regatta.[60]

Statesmen[edit]

United States[edit]

Brooks Brothers has outfitted 41 of the 46 American Presidents, including Presidents Abraham Lincoln, Ulysses S. Grant, Theodore Roosevelt, Herbert Hoover, Franklin Roosevelt, John F. Kennedy, Richard Nixon, Gerald Ford, George H. W. Bush, Bill Clinton, Barack Obama, and Donald Trump.[7] In recent times, only Jimmy Carter and Ronald Reagan did not own any pieces of clothing from Brooks Brothers.[61][62] 5 usa-president were not customer : George-Washington , Thomas-Jefferson , John-Adams , Jimmy-Carter , Ronald-Reagan[63][64] .

In 1865, President Abraham Lincoln wore a custom-made Brooks Brothers frock coat to his Second inauguration. Lincoln later wore the same frock coat on the evening of his assassination.[61]

In 1881, after becoming vice-president of the United States, Chester A. Arthur went on a Brooks Brothers shopping spree.[65] Presidents Ulysses S. Grant, Woodrow Wilson, and Theodore Roosevelt all wore Brooks Brothers to their respective inaugurations as well.

In 1945, President Franklin D. Roosevelt wore Brooks Brothers while on his way to meet Joseph Stalin and Winston Churchill at the Yalta Conference.[12]

In 1963, President John F. Kennedy was wearing a Brooks Brothers’ grey suit when he was assassinated.[61]

In 2009, President Barack Obama wore a Brooks Brothers coat, scarf, and gloves during his inauguration in 2009 (this coat was later re-worn by Obama to Trump's inauguration in 2017).[66][67] In 2013, during his second inauguration, Obama wore a suit designed by Martin Greenfield, paired with a white shirt from Brooks Brothers.[61]

In 2017, President Donald Trump was inaugurated in a grey suit, white shirt, and dark blue overcoat. The white shirt and overcoat were believed to have been designed by Brooks Brothers. Melania Trump and Ivanka Trump have also been seen wearing items of clothing from Brooks Brothers at times.[61][62]

In 2021, President Joe Biden broke tradition by not wearing any items from Brooks Brothers at his inauguration, instead opting for a Ralph Lauren navy suit and winter overcoat.[68]

France[edit]

French former president Jacques Chirac bought his shirts at the Madison shop.[69]

Music and fine arts[edit]

Brooks Brothers is the official clothier of the Jazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra.[70]

Andy Warhol was known to buy and wear clothes from Brooks Brothers. According to Carlton Walters: "I got to [know] Andy quite well, and he always looked bedraggled: always had his tie lopsided, as he didn't have time to tie it, and he never tied his shoe laces, and he even wore different colored socks, but he bought all of his clothes at Brooks Brothers."[71]

Actors, TV Personalities, and Celebrities[edit]

Cary Grant, Clark Gable, Jimmy Stewart, Barry Fitzgerald, Fred Astaire, Nina Foch, and Maria Riva are among a long list of Hollywood celebrities who obtained special attention during the 1940s at Brooks Brothers in Manhattan, and they also catered to executives in the emerging television industry such as Fred Friendly and Edward R. Kenefick of CBS.[72]

In the 1950s and 1960s, other actors such as Paul Newman, Gary Cooper, Burt Lancaster, Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly, Katherine Hepburn and Audrey Hepburn purchased clothing from Brooks Brothers. Several wore Brooks Brothers both on screen and off the screen.[73][74]

Stephen Colbert had all of his suits for The Colbert Report and The Late Show with Stephen Colbert supplied by Brooks Brothers.[75]

In film, television, and theatre[edit]

The "white" shirts used for Archie Bunker's costumes in All in the Family were recut tan oxford shirts from Brooks Brothers.[76] Tan was used to avoid lens flare, a problem with certain colors, such as white, on videotape at the time.

Brooks Brothers supplied clothes for the television show Mad Men. In October 2009, Brooks Brothers created a limited edition "Mad Men Edition" suit with the show's costume designer.[77]

Brooks Brothers frequently is sought out by costume designers in Hollywood, dressing stars in such films as Ben Affleck in Pearl Harbor, Gene Hackman in The Royal Tenenbaums, and Will Smith in Ali.[78] The company produced made-to-measure period costumes for Denzel Washington's The Great Debaters.[79]

George Clooney wears Brooks Brothers throughout the film Up in the Air, and scenes were shot in a Brooks Brothers airport store.[80] The men of the film The Adjustment Bureau wear Brooks Brothers.[81] In November 2011, Brooks Brothers announced that it had designed a custom wardrobe for Kermit the Frog for the movie The Muppets. The young stars of Slumdog Millionaire were all dressed by Brooks Brothers for the 81st Academy Awards.[82]

Brooks Brothers made all of the men's costumes, more than 500 pieces, for the 2013 adaptation of The Great Gatsby.[83] They also sponsored the premieres in New York City and Cannes Film Festival. This was followed by a limited edition collection designed with Catherine Martin and sold at Brooks Brothers stores around the world.[84] [85]

In the sitcom I Love Lucy, Brooks Brothers is referenced in the episode titled Changing the Boys' Wardrobe (Season 3, Episode 9, 1953). The characters Ricky and Fred place their old clothes in Brooks Brothers boxes so that their wives think they got new expensive clothing from Brooks Brothers. [86]

Chuck Bass and Nate Archibald on the Gossip Girl TV series frequently wear clothes from Brooks Brothers.[80]

Aziz Ansari's character Tom Haverford, on the NBC sitcom Parks and Recreation, frequently mentions buying clothes from the Brooks Brothers Boys collection because, as he says, "the cuts are slimmer, and it's cheaper. Win win."[87]

Alec Baldwin's titular character in the 1994 film The Shadow was complimented on his Brooks Brothers tie by his adversary Shiwan Khan. The Shadow gives him the store's name and address in Midtown at the intersection of 45th and Madison. At their next meeting, Khan is dressed in Brooks Brothers clothing.[88]

In Season 5 of the TV series Murder, She Wrote, main character Jessica Fletcher makes reference to Brooks Brothers suits (see Episode 7 "The Last Flight of the Dixie Damsel").[89]

In the song “I’ll know” from the stage musical Guys and Dolls (which premiered on Broadway in 1950), in response to Sgt Sarah Brown's musings about her ideal husband, Sky Masterson scoffs: “You have wished yourself a Scarsdale Galahad, the breakfast-eating, Brooks Brothers type”. In the 1955 film version, the Brooks Brothers reference was removed. Marlon Brando, in the role of Sky Masterson, sings: “You have wished yourself a small-town Galahad, the breakfast-eating, four-button type” - either way the intention of the lyric is probably to draw a contrast between the suburban businessman type, clad in conservative American or British tailoring, and the glitzy, bold, stand-out-from-the-crowd Italian tailoring Sky Masterson and his fellow gangsters typically sport in most adaptations.[90]

In the 2020 film Tenet the protagonist played by John David Washington wore Brooks Brothers while meeting with Sir Michael Crosby (Michael Caine).[91]

In fiction[edit]

The lead character Lestat de Lioncourt in Anne Rice's Vampire Chronicles often describes himself to be wearing suits by Brooks Brothers.[92]

F. Scott Fitzgerald refers to Brooks Brothers clothing in his debut novel, This Side of Paradise.[93]

Mary McCarthy's short story "The Man in the Brooks Brothers Shirt," which can be found in her collection The Company she keeps, 1942, is one of the more famous literary references to the Brooks Brothers.[94]

Bret Easton Ellis refers to clothing from Brooks Brothers worn by Patrick Bateman and his colleagues in his controversial novel, American Psycho.[95]

James Thurber refers to Brooks Brothers shirts in some of his short stories.[96] Kurt Vonnegut also refers to a Brooks Brothers suit worn by the main character in his book, Jailbird.[97]

Writers John O'Hara, Somerset Maugham and J. P. Marquand incorporated Brooks Brothers into their stories as a means to draw out character traits.[98]

Richard Yates not only wore Brooks Brothers clothing throughout his life,[99] but he often referred to the brand in his writing, including in A Good School, in which one of the characters tries to hang himself with a Brooks Brothers belt.[100]

Novelist W.E.B. Griffin often mentioned Brooks Brothers military uniforms, Dress uniform and Dress Mess uniform in particular, in his best-selling Brotherhood of War[101][102][103] and The Corps book series.[104][105][106]

Writer Tom Wolfe makes repeated mentions of Brooks Brothers in his essays on style and status.[107]

In Kathryn Stockett's novel The Help, Skeeter wears one of her father's Brooks Brothers shirts.[108]

In the 2015 comic book Ms. Marvel #18 by Marvel Comics, the supervillain Kamran is derisively referred to by Kamala Khan's older brother, Aamir, as "that walking Brooks Brothers franchise."[109]

See also[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ a b c "Brooks Brothers to Seek Approval of Sale to Authentic Brands Group and SPARC Group for $325 Million". Business Wire. August 11, 2020. Retrieved November 20, 2020.
  2. ^ Friedman, Vanessa; Maheshwari, Sapna (June 5, 2020). "Brooks Bros., 'Made in America' Since 1818, May Soon Need a New Calling Card - The New York Times". The New York Times.
  3. ^ a b Grossman, Avidan (July 8, 2020). "Brooks Brothers Is Declaring Bankruptcy. That Doesn't Mean It's Dead". Esquire. Retrieved July 8, 2020.
  4. ^ a b Maheshwari, Sapna (August 12, 2020). "Bankrupt Brooks Brothers Finds a Buyer". The New York Times. Retrieved August 12, 2020.
  5. ^ Elie, (April 7, 2014). "Today in 1818: Brooks Brothers Debuts on the Lower East Side". Bowery Boogie.
  6. ^ "About Us". Brooks Brothers. Retrieved September 12, 2015
  7. ^ a b c d "Brooks Brothers Our Heritage, Our History". Brooks Brothers. February 11, 2013. Retrieved February 11, 2013.
  8. ^ Barnett, Jim (January 27, 2011). "Abraham Lincoln's Overcoat Returns to Public Display at Ford's Theatre". National Parks Traveler. Retrieved March 28, 2015.
  9. ^ a b "About Us | Notable Customers". Brooks Brothers. Retrieved January 6, 2012.
  10. ^ Soodalter, Ron (May 9, 2011). "The Union's "Shoddy Aristocracy"". The New York Times. Retrieved March 30, 2013.
  11. ^ DeLoach, Rhoda, Memoirs of Rhoda Andréa Petry DeLoach, 1992, Sarasota, Florida, an assistant to the president of Brooks Brothers from 1945 through 1947
  12. ^ a b David, Lester (September 1950). "There's Only One Brooks Brothers". Coronet Magazine.
  13. ^ "This vs. That: Real Washington Men Wear Brooks Brothers, Not Ralph Lauren". American City Business Journals. DC Inno.
  14. ^ Agins, Teri (April 21, 2018). "With a Glance Backward, Brooks Brothers Looks to the Future". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved March 13, 2020.
  15. ^ "Brooks Brothers is sold for $225 million". Chicago Tribune. November 24, 2001. Retrieved March 28, 2015.
  16. ^ "Carolee World - History". CaroleeWorld.com. Archived from the original on April 2, 2015. Retrieved March 28, 2015.
  17. ^ "Landquart Fashion Outlet: Marken". landquartfashionoutlet.ch. Archived from the original on August 9, 2016. Retrieved August 11, 2016.
  18. ^ "100 Year Story | Brooks Brothers". Brooks Brothers. September 27, 2015. Retrieved January 30, 2017.
  19. ^ Philipkoski, Kristen (September 4, 2013). "Brooks Brothers Has Opened an Enormous, Posh Flagship in SF". Racked SF. Retrieved January 30, 2017.
  20. ^ CIT. "CITVoice: Why Brooks Brothers And Other Apparel Companies Are Moving Manufacturing Back Home". Forbes. Retrieved January 30, 2017.
  21. ^ Smith, Ray A. (September 21, 2016). "Brooks Brothers Launches New Casual Line". The Wall Street Journal. ISSN 0099-9660. Retrieved January 30, 2017.
  22. ^ Givhan, Robin (March 23, 2007). "The Man in the Browne Flannel Suit". The Washington Post. Retrieved January 6, 2012.
  23. ^ McKeon, Nancy (October 19, 2014). "Fashion: The hidden story of Brooks Brothers". Daily Herald. Retrieved January 30, 2017.
  24. ^ "Brooks Brothers moves to Rockefeller Center". The Real Deal New York. December 17, 2008. Retrieved January 30, 2017.
  25. ^ a b c Friedman, Vanessa; Maheshwari, Sapna (June 5, 2020). "Brooks Bros., 'Made in America' Since 1818, May Soon Need a New Calling Card". The New York Times.
  26. ^ "Brooks Brothers Seeks Buyer as Wall Street Works From Home (1)". news.bloomberglaw.com.
  27. ^ "ABG, SPARC Group Finalize Brooks Brothers Acquisition". licenseglobal.com. Retrieved November 20, 2020.
  28. ^ "Bankrupt Brooks Brothers Acquisition by ABG and Simon Is Complete". Footwear News. September 2020. Retrieved November 20, 2020.
  29. ^ Palmieri, Jean E. (December 1, 2020). "EXCLUSIVE: The Brooks Brothers Playbook Includes More Sportswear, E-comm and Fun". WWD. Retrieved February 4, 2021.
  30. ^ Michael Bastian Joins Brooks Brothers as Creative Director, Zac Posen Exits Chantal Fernandez, Business of Fashion, December 1, 2020.
  31. ^ "google ( albini )".
  32. ^ "---observer.com/2016/07/the-non-profit-cotton-company-used-by-gucci-prada-and-dior/ from google (brooks brothers supima cotton weaver) result 9
    publish-date : 13 jul 2016 3:53 pm
    writer : Zachary-Weiss
    The Non-Profit Cotton Company Used by Gucci, Prada, Dior.
    How a not-for-profit organisation representing 200 farm in USA produce cotton for world's finest shirt makers [foto:Supima Cotton field. (Photo: Terry O] It's an arid landscape, and across 100,000 acre all that's visible is crisp, sun-dried cotton stalks. someone would never expect that this locale, usa->california-state->Corcoran-city, is responsible for most of cotton-products in luxury-market. A visit to the massive compound is a look to world of highly prized Pima-cotton, and all of pain-staking details behind producing so-called cashmere-goat-wool of cotton-industry. Once harvested, raw cotton begins its long, often multi-continental journey to becoming a menswear cornerstone : cotton-oxford-shirt. Founded in year 1954, Supima is not-for-profit organisation representing 200 family cotton-field-farm that grow Pima-cotton in South-west usa and West usa. Supima-group is responsible for licensing world's leading textile-factory-mills, brands and retailers to use Supima brand trademark on American-grown Pima products. Once the raw cotton is machine-picked, ginned, graded by hand and approved by Supima as the top 1 % of world's cotton, supima-cotton-bails receive number-label and left in a field awaiting purchase. Albinigroup.com.
    [foto:Albini. (Photo: Giovanni-Marchesi)] albinigroup.com supply many of them. albinigroup.com massively successful Italian shirt maker, founded in year 1876, acts as middle-man between raw-cotton and retail-clothes-shop, albinigroup.com's rieter-textile-machine ( source : 'rieter' in youtube.com/watch?v=XG8ggxK8Ej8 ( albini group - the spinning )) convert raw-cotton to over 11 million-meter/mega-meter fabric every year. albinigroup.com-factory is located 1 hour outside of italy->Milan-city, in idyllic, mountainous town of Albino-city where textile-industry has developed since end of 19-th century. albino-city resemble a quaint, European iteration of upstate New-York, and employs 1,334 people, including albinigroup.com's president, Silvio-Albini. Silvio-Albini is 5-th generation in his family to helm albinigroup.com-company, and already become intimately involved in every aspect of shirt production down to water used during dying and finishing from nearby Serio-River. "we need good water to bulk-make good fabric," Silvio-Albini said of many unassuming factors behind perfect cotton-shirt. "good water must not have excessive calcium. good water must have good pH as well like ph is not too alkaline , ph is not too acidic". albinigroup.com-facility is a maze of dying, warping, weaving, garment-finishing, all operating at a deep hum. albinigroup.com's fabric production is used by more than a handful of powerhouse brands ranging from fellow Italians Brunello-Cucinelli, Gucci, Prada to international fashion-designer like Dior, Hugo-Boss, Loro-Piana, Theory, and each 1 fashion-designer has its own set of rules when it comes to cotton shirts :
    (1)Berluti request a signature, proprietary shade of blue ( maybe for logo );
    (2)Turnbull & Asser requests a particular 3-dimensional weaving structure ( maybe for logo ).
    This creates intricate/complicated pattern that is unnoticed unless fabric is held close to eye. [foto:Cotton gingham shirts from Brooks Brothers. (Photo: Brooks Brothers)] . albinigroup.com sell in 80 countries , there are 3 client-categories :
    (1) specialised shirt makers
    (2) "total look" design houses and
    (3) selected mega-retailers like Thomas-Pink and Brooks-Brothers.
    "our client must be good retailer, because not every retailer can pay our relatively high price" , albinigroup.com said modestly. retail-floor is final-stop in this long-production-line, and at Brooks-Brothers in particular, classic cotton shirt has been bread and butter of Brooks-Brothers since its earliest days. classic cotton shirt continues to hold its rightful spot as highest-grossing product available at Brooks-Brothers's over 500 locations around the world, and earlier this year the classic Polo Button-Down Oxford was reworked and improved. The breast pocket has disappeared, the tails have become longer for a better tuck and new mother of pearl buttons were introduced to luxe up the daily essential. The collar was also redesigned to give it a gentle roll, rather than a sharp fold. These advancements seek to cater to guys who care more than ever about the way they dress, so much so that even the once-unquestioned staples—like the oxford shirt—need improvement. In a 2016 study, The Boutique @ Ogilvy found that by 2017, menswear market is expected to climb 8.3 % to 110.3 billion-usd/giga-usd in gross yearly revenue, while womenswear is slated to climb just 4.2 %. Guys are also spending, on average, 85 usd per month on clothing or 10 usd more per month than average woman. "In recent years, men have become much more interested in clothing they wear" said Brooks-Brothers chairman and CEO Claudio-Del-Vecchio. "They have high expectations in terms of both style and quality, but that's something we've been doing for nearly 200 year". Filed Under: Lifestyle, Gucci, dior, Brooks-Brothers, Hugo-Boss, NY Fashion Week: Men's, Theory, Loro-Piana SEE ALSO: Drawing Confirms Van Gogh Cut Off Whole Ear, Napoleon's Taxidermy Horse Restored"    .
  33. ^ "dead-link : ---brooksbrothers.com/Golden-Fleece%C2%AE-Regent-Fit-Flannel-Sport-Shirt/MG02939,default,pd.html from google (albini brooks brothers) result 2
    We've given the classic flannel sport shirt a luxurious makeover. Crafted from extremely soft 100 % cotton Italian flannel woven by albinigroup.com , this exceptionally comfortable shirt offers refinement you'll appreciate on weekdays and weekends . Spread collar and premium mother-of-pearl buttons. Meticulously crafted in usa at our manufacturing facility in usa->north-carolina-state->Garland-city. Dry-clean. Made in USA from imported materials"    .
  34. ^ "dead-link : ---brooksbrothers.com/200th-anniversary-sponsors/200th-anniversary-sponsors,default,pg.html from google (albini brooks brothers) result 4
    200 Years of American Style. 2 Centuries of Innovation .
    Throughout our 200-year history , we have relied on cooperation of our extended Brooks-Brothers family of business partners . In celebrating 2 centuries of excellence , innovation and service , we also honor contributions of these companies and individuals that made our 200-th Anniversary celebration possible . Please join us in thanking them for their partnership and support .
    (1)Golden Fleece Partner :
    Marzotto-Group , Supima , TAL-Group , United-Airlines (united.com) , Vitale-Barberis-Canonico .
    (2)Black Fleece Partner :
    Bagir-International-Inc , Luxottica , Nebraska-Crossing-Outlets , Trabaldo-Togna-1840 , Walton-Brown-Group , Winnitex-Limited .
    (3)1818 Club Partner :
    AlbiniGroup.com , Americana-Manhasset , Arafa-Holding , Esquel-Enterprises-Limited , Freudenberg , Innovative-Information-Solutions , Loro-Piana , Luthai-Textile-Co-Ltd , MasterCard.com , Nameson-Group-Ltd , New-England-Development , Poag-Shopping-Centers , Reda-1865-and-Reda-Active , Tollegno-1900 , Trajes-Mexicanos , Winston-&-Strawn-LLP , ZUDY .
    (4)Red Fleece Partner :
    Baird-McNutt-Irish-Linen , BOC-International-Inc , Bottonificio-Padano-spa. , Charter-Ventures-Ltd , Cimexlana-&-SPCambridge , Dondi-Jersey , E-Thomas , Echo-Lake-Industries-Ltd , Filatura-Papi-Fabio , Jiangsu-Sunshine-Group , Lardini , Multifreight-HJK-Ltd/MultiFreight.com.hk ( from google ( multifreight hjk ) result 1 ) , Uno-Logistics-Ltd/UnoLogistics.in ( from google ( uno logistics ) result 2 ) , Piacenza-Cashmere-1733 , Simon-Property-Group , SML-Group-Ltd , Südwolle-Group , Systems+ , Tristate-Holdings-Ltd.
    (5)Fleece Partner :
    China-Union-Cashmere-International-Group-Ltd , Digital-Color-Concepts , EAM-Maliban-Textiles-(Pvt)-Ltd , Epsilon , Expeditors , Ferla , High-Fashion-Garments-Company-Ltd , International-Color-Services , Outfront-Media , Paradies-Lagardere , Peeq-Imaging-an-ABC-Company , Sae-A-Trading-Co-Ltd , Shanghai-Shenji-Decoration-Co-Ltd , Shang-Hai-Jia-Sen-Decoration-Co-Ltd , Shoprunner , South-Asia-Knitting-Factory-Ltd , Starwood-Retail-Partners , TUW-Textile-Co-Ltd , Universal-Express-(Garments)-LTD. , Verde-Apparel-Limited , Wing-Tai-Enterprises-Ltd"    .
  35. ^ "Brooks Brothers Inauguration Bow Tie Primer". guestofaguest.com. Retrieved February 19, 2013.
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  62. ^ a b Palmieri, Jean E.; Huges, Aria (January 20, 2017). "Donald Trump Goes Classic for Inauguration Day Attire". Women's Wear Daily.
  63. ^ "---facebook.com/BrooksBrothers/photos/a.127922713896959/2187081374647739/?type=3&theater
    publish-date : 18 feb 2019
    Brooks-Brothers has the honor of being worn by nearly every usa-president since year 1818. Can you guess which 5 presidents were not patrons of Brooks-Brothers ? brksb.rs/6184TDrmK or magazine.brooksbrothers.com/dressing-presidents answer : George-Washington, Thomas-Jefferson, John-Adams, Jimmy-Carter, Ronald-Reagan"    .
  64. ^ "---magazine.brooksbrothers.com/dressing-presidents
    Dressing the Presidents of usa
    Culture
    Here at Brooks-Brothers/bb, we have the honor of dressing almost every usa-president since year 1818 . Out of all illustrious patron of bb : Hollywood-royalty , nobility , titans of industry among them , perhaps none have been of greater stature than many usa-presidents who trusted bb for their sartorial needs . John-Fitzgerald-Kennedy/jfk was 1 of most prominent bb's clients of modern times , and jfk is just 1 of 40 usa-presidents who we can proudly claim as clients . 1 of bb's most illustrious usa-presidential patrons was Abraham-Lincoln/aL . aL's usual stature (height 6 foot , 4 inch) required custom-tailoring , which made aL a frequent visitor . 1 of aL's most famous purchases was a frock-coat worn to aL's 2-nd president-inauguration . that frock-coat was custom-made and featured a custom-embroidered lining featuring american-eagle and a banner which says "1 Country , 1 Destiny" . Sadly , aL wore same frock-coat in evening of aL's assassination-attack at Ford's Theatre. The connection between bb and Office-of-President started early . bb began creating military uniforms as early as year 1818 for veteran of year-1812-war , then came to the attention of military commanders who would later hold Office-of-Chief-Executive as well. In bb's archives there is a handwritten order from formerly Quartermaster-of-Army Chester-ALan-Arthur/caa (caa later become 1 of usa's most respected presidents) for 300 overcoats for a Union regiment , dated year 1861 . The tradition of dressing Chief-Executive continued down through subsequent generations . Hiram-Ulysses-Grant , Woodrow-Wilson , Theodore-Roosevelt/tr all wore bb during their president-inaugurations . tr so admired bb's tailoring that tr ask bb to custom-tailor uniform which tr wore as commander of 1-st usa-Volunteer-Cavalry-regiment . In more recent years , usa-presidents have different political vision , but 1 thing most usa-presidents have in common is their patronage of usa's original clothier . having usa-president as customer is a relationship which continue to present day and future. Filed under: Culture , Abraham-Lincoln , Barack-Hussein-Obama-2 , Chester-Alan-Arthur , Dwight-David-Eisenhower , JFK , Presidential Fashion , Presidents , Theodore-Roosevelt-jr , Hiram-Ulysses-Grant , United-States-Presidents , Woodrow Wilson"    .
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External links[edit]

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Coordinates: 40°45′16″N 73°58′43″W / 40.754445°N 73.97856°W / 40.754445; -73.97856

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