For spring, Osman Yousefzada returned to showing on the runway. The idea of his latest offering stemmed from the notion of biodegradation—understandably he’s feeling particularly sensitive to the impact that the industry has with its overproduction—hence the show title: What Happened to Last Season’s Collection?
“It’s a relentless cycle, and then you’re inviting people to come see a new collection,” said Yousefzada. “What does that actually mean, and have we really learned anything?” He’s asking exactly what most of us are thinking. Weren’t proclamations of conscientious changes made not too long ago? Thankfully the designer is a man of his word. Fifteen looks from his new collection were made from sustainably sourced wood pulp fabric, a Lyocell filament yarn supplied by Tencel, which is an alternative to silk. He has also joined forces with three separate mills that are known for their ethical credentials as well as repurposing exquisite fabric offcuts. The result was an array of layered textures, abstract silhouettes, and architectural tailoring of couture level. Standout looks were colorful pieces in orange, crimson, and fuchsia. The show venue was London restaurant Amazonico, which, fitting Yousefzada’s ethos, supports global reforestation charity One Tree Planted.
When asked if he was ready for the return of the physical format, Yousefzada sighed: “I was enjoying the rest,” he said. “But we can’t deny that showing live will always be a great way for people to experience the clothes. We just have to be more mindful of what’s put out there.”
