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Yara Flinn’s clothes look great in photos, but the real draw of a Nomia piece is that it’s rarely what it seems. In her spring 2022 lookbook, the slippery-looking fabric of a deep turquoise bomber appears to be performance nylon; you imagine it being cold and noisy IRL. In fact, it’s actually a coated linen, with a surprisingly soft drape and none of the harsh crispiness of a synthetic fiber. The classic-looking camel blazer in look 3 has a warmer energy up-close thanks to its basketweave texture, while the same jacket in muted sage has the opposite vibe: It’s super sleek and tech-y.

All to say, Nomia isn’t a collection you can easily appreciate on a screen. Beyond the Zoom fatigue we’re all suffering, Flinn witnessed the game-changing benefits of real-life fashion experiences this year when she opened a long-term pop-up in Greenpoint. She watched how customers reacted to her fabrics and unexpected tweaks in real time, and how the touch and feel of a garment was often what motivated a purchase. Just as importantly, Flinn realized the pieces she loved designing the most were also the ones that resonated most with her customers. So instead of thinking about past best-sellers or how to properly merchandise this collection, she let her own intuition guide spring 2022. The results have all the Nomia trademarks—sporty basics, minimal slips, muted tones—with bursts of joyful experimentation, like a graphic bandana print and searing pops of color in knits and tie-dye dresses. The most surprising look combined a marigold turtleneck and wide-leg trousers in that glossy linen, this time in a shade of rosy pink. With their elastic waistband, clean silhouette, and peculiar fabric, they had the makings of an unlikely new basic; Flinn might just need to cut them in a few more colors.