Alessandro Dell’Acqua has always been an ardent proponent of body positivity—or at least, he has always believed in the power of an expressive yet natural sensuality. This approach, which sits at the heart of his work, is now being picked up by a younger generation of designers in collections celebrating the body in all its diverse glory. Not surprisingly, for spring Dell’Acqua reiterated the concept in his own way.
“I’m not keen on glamorizing the body. I don’t do ostentatious, I don’t like what’s overtly provocative,” he said backstage. Playing the feminine/masculine sensuality card with a touch of nonchalant playfulness, he indulged in soft, tactile, thick knitted textures, counterbalanced by vital and young proportions, spiced up by what he called “typical couture flourishes”—meticulous finishing techniques, the use of luxe feathers and marabou trimmings, delicate tulle overlays and hefty doses of crystal beading.
Dell’Acqua offered many covetable pieces, which came with lots of bare skin: A pair of low-rise pants, hand-crocheted in fluffy white wool, was see-through, stopping just short of risqué; a tailored pantsuit worn with a barely-there bandeau top was made by five layers of nude tulle, leaving almost nothing to the imagination. Bustiers, brassieres and feathered harness tops abounded, paired with canvas miniskirts studded with crystals or with sturdy chinos. It made for a fast-paced, sexy collection—Dell’Acqua seemed to be in upbeat mode, his finger firmly on the pulse.
