Out of context, pieces from Nicole Miller’s spring collection could either belong in the costume closet for Laugh-In, or the inside of a 22-year-old TikToker’s wardrobe. That’s by design. This season, Miller was inspired by ’60s op-art artists, primarily Wojciech Fangor, but also Bridget Riley, Richard Anuszkiewicz, and Victor Vasarely. At the same time, she was responding to a market demand for the amped-up silhouettes that became her calling card in the 2000s. “We’ve been through a lot,” Miller said. “Everything was casual [early in the pandemic], with a lot of fabric and loose dresses. I think everyone is returning to being a bit more aggressive. People are asking for a lot of my old dresses from the 2000s, those kind of ruched, body-con ones. We did a lot of that, too.”
Each of the looks was presented on a different abstract, technicolor landscape with a model floating in the center of the backdrop. The bright colors, bold patterns, and skin-baring garments might have been combining two disparate decades, but the effect was decidedly current. For example, a coral-colored, ruched mini dress was an update on one of Miller’s old designs, with the large puff sleeves pulling it into the early 2020s. Other camera-ready ensembles include a wavy-patterned, knitted halter and miniskirt set, and the short red tank dress with an empire waist of yellow plastic chain links.
The most interesting pieces in the collection were the most fantastical. A collage-like print of pink, peach, yellow, and blue stripes punctuated by photo-realistic seagulls and grazing cows was deliciously surreal on a long slip dress with an asymmetrical neckline (Miller has long been known for her print work). And though there were plenty of going out dresses, the winner was a minidress made of paillettes in various sizes in a slightly more muted color palette than the rest of the collection. The final look, a nude gown embellished with rainbow sequins, would feel right at home in one of Miller’s collections from the early 2000s, giving the people what they want.
