A journey through the hedonism of ’90s British subcultures was what Mark Fast proposed this season, with a high-octane collection that dialed up the sex factor. At the core of the collection—outside of the streetwear bells and whistles Fast has expanded into more recently—was a return to the clingy knit dresses that first made his name back when he was a rising star on the London fashion scene over a decade ago. Here, they came in stretchy panels attached together by silver chain links or looped around to form circular cutouts and embellished with rings. Staged in an industrial car park near Leicester Square, these were party-ready pieces for the most daring of dressers.
The countercultural references didn’t always land. The heavily logo’d bags, for example, felt a little out of place within the lineup of acid house shell suits and graffiti-inspired, hand-painted denim pieces. Still, it was clear that Fast was having a whole lot of fun this season revisiting the style codes of his youth and updating them for the youth of today.
