Lela Rose was set to host one of New York Fashion Week’s first shows after 18 months of Zooms, and it would have been a fitting welcome back. Her shows have never been your standard up-and-back runways; they usually feel more like garden parties, with snacks, cocktails, gorgeous flowers, and live music. We’ve always counted on Rose to bring a bit of joy and lightness to the stressful week, so it was disappointing to hear that her show was canceled in the weeks before Labor Day, mainly due to COVID uncertainties. She hosted appointments in her showroom instead, with views of the Empire State Building just beyond the terrace. Even a press preview is cause for celebration in Rose’s world, though; she has a floral-wallpapered bar tucked into the corner.
Her spring 2022 collection would have looked radiant in the outdoor party she’d been planning, but the real takeaway is how her customers will celebrate—in big and small ways—when this collection hits stores. If Catherine de Medici’s chateau, Marie Antoinette’s gardens, and Catherine the Great sound like over-the-top starting points, the clothes were a happy mix of opulence and comfort. A medallion print inspired by ornate Renaissance ceilings had a hand-drawn finish and appeared on a loose, ankle-length column; micro-pleated midi dresses were cut in crispy cotton, not silk; and tiered gowns had crushed-looking taffeta sleeves that would only get better as the night wore on.
Color was another big takeaway for Rose: She’s never been a black dress designer, but she reported her customer is craving bold, unapologetic hues for re-emergence. A limoncello coat printed with acid-y greens and blues was a particular surprise, while a blush gown with enormous 3-D flower petals is apparently already a top seller with retailers.
