Location. Location. Location. During fashion month, the real estate a designer utilizes is almost as important as the clothes. Choosing a remarkable venue makes a statement, and LaQuan Smith unveiled his spring collection at New York’s iconic Empire State Building. As Art Deco masterpieces go, it doesn’t get much better, but transforming a vintage skyscraper into a modern event space comes with a few annoyances. Logistically, traveling 102 floors and fitting scores of guests into an observatory space typically occupied by tour groups was a headache. Still, what happens in IRL is increasingly irrelevant. Smith’s show was designed and executed for the internet. Everything from the oh-so Instagrammable appearance of French poodles on the runway to the camera drones that glided overhead catered to the online audience who have supported Smith from the start.
Kids at home tuned in to gawk and shop, a task made easier by the show’s see-now-buy-now format and the innate vitality of the looks. Unapologetic sexiness is Smith’s bread and butter, and anyone confident enough to wear his mesh bodysuits and glossy trousers is looking to stand out. Smith’s corsets and cut-out dresses have become ubiquitous in celebrity circles, and this season he introduced another big motif, terrycloth. The fabric featured in multiple looks, some literal—a cropped white robe complete with belt and embroidered monogram—and others far removed from the source material. The twisted and draped dress on Jazzelle Zanaughtti relied on a similar texture, but its belly-baring silhouette didn’t make you think about the spa.
There was a lot of skin on display, but calling Smith’s clothes revealing is a misnomer. His pieces don’t show the body, they frame it, highlighting specific areas to create idealized forms. In the past he accomplished that through corsetry or the squeeze of latex. This go-round, Smith kept things loose and light utilizing draping, jersey fabrics, and lace to highlight his muses’ assets. Old hits—the boiled wool halter dress Hailey Bieber wore for her tête-à-tête with Emmanuel Macron and the shiny motorcycle trousers beloved by Kylie Jenner—were refreshed in softer versions. The halter received plenty of ruching and was worn with a feathery jacket by Elsa Hosk, while the pants came in fresh colorways like high gloss white and bottle cap blue.
Still, the most significant change may be Smith’s new partner, Puma, with whom he inked a deal earlier this year. The influence of the athletic wear giant came through in logo-ed sweatshirts and tees that were paired with fishnet stockings for a rebellious touch. Their vibe differed from the high-key sexiness of the other pieces, but they represented Smith’s push into other arenas. Not everyone can pull off a transparent Capri pant or skirts with slits so high they merge into the waistband. By contrast, t-shirts are fashion at its most democratic. Smith’s ambitions for his brand have always been big, so a future where everyone owns a shirt with his name on it doesn’t seem far-fetched.
