Sex, seduction, and skin are proving to be the key themes of spring 2022 in Milan, but rather than skip back to Pucci’s vampy 2010s days, the brand is offering a less obvious sensuality. Prim pastel sheaths envelope the body with slits cut high, well above the hipbone, on each side. Square necklines and the occasional button-up back made them look like pinafores with a devilish twist. Bandeau tops and minis so short they’re effectively belts play up this severe skimpiness, and small embroideries, feathers, and beadwork are introduced in small portions, so as not to overwhelm the purity of the Pucci silhouette.
These are the latest developments in the brand’s austerely elegant interim period led by its design team. Camille Miceli, a longtime LVMH designer at Dior and Louis Vuitton, assumed her position as creative director this month, but had no hand in the minimalist looks for spring. Perhaps she will keep some? Over a Zoom call with the Pucci team, they reported sales are staggering—it’s evidenced by the Pucci mania hitting Millennial and Gen Z customers who crave the feeling that the brand’s party girl looks offer. And it’s not just the under-35s who are eyeing up Pucci. Jennifer Lopez made a stop at the brand’s Capri flagship during her summer holiday; days later she wore a white Pucci bandeau, trousers, and jacket in Los Angeles. One advancement Miceli could make: casting more women like J.Lo in the brand’s visuals. The Pucci look, however sleek, flatters a variety of body-types and ages. Why not show it?
