Today Prada co–creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons staged two simultaneous shows in Milan and Shanghai, each presentation nearly identical except for their respective casts of models. Individual beauty reigned supreme in both cities, but in Shanghai 24 models received a special treat: a virtual haircut from the legendary Guido Palau. If you’re not sure what that entails, don’t worry—it was a foreign concept to Palau too, up until the pandemic at least.
“It was very strange,” admits Palau of the experience, which found him virtually instructing Chinese hairstylists via a translator in the days leading up to the show. Less dramatic and more subtle and nuanced, each cut hinged on enhancing the features and hair silhouettes of each model to edgy, cool-girl effect. Think wispy fringe, choppy bobs, and shaggy layers. “I didn’t want the cuts to look extreme—I wanted to give them more individuality…breaking down square shapes and heaviness of the hair,” explained Palau. “Cutting bangs, cutting layers, putting texture in the hair.” Backstage in Milan, Palau enhanced each model’s natural texture, dampening strands and raking Hairstory’s Hair Balm through the mid lengths and ends for a slightly undone, air-dried feel.
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Furthering the pared-back theme, makeup artist Pat McGrath opted to give each girl—both IRL and virtually—“hyperreal, cinematic skin,” using her Pat McGrath Labs Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection The System with taps of her new Lunar Nude highlighter on the high points of the face. Groomed brows, curled lashes, and slicks of clear Lip Fetish balm on the mouth anchored the rest of the look.
“At the end of the day, the way the girls looked in both cities was very modern, unreferenced,” Palau continued. “It was sort of about each girl’s personality. Miuccia and Raf wanted the girls to feel like they just put on the clothes and walked the street. We haven’t done this approach for a while at Prada. We often push a more defined beauty narrative.” Telegraphing a come-as-you-are spirit with a cool, cutting-edge attitude, Prada can always be relied upon for a strong beauty message. This season more than ever, there really is something for everyone.