How Much Does it Cost to Remove Radon Gas?

Radon gas is odorless and invisible to the human eye. It is a radioactive gas that occurs naturally deep within the soil. It is formed by the natural decay of uranium in rock and soil deep in the earth.

Radon is found in every state and moves through the air and water. It has a decay life of approximately 4 days, which can build up over time depending on ventilation. The health risks of radon gas can lead to a risk in lung cancer. Short-term effects include shortness of breath and headaches. It is a wise investment to reduce the chance of radon gas infiltrating the home and removing excess gas.

Radon Reduction Applications

Most radon mitigation systems work with pressurized fans or suction devices to create a vacuum in spaces that trap radon gas. The gas is removed and a method of sealing leaks commences during the removal process.

Sealing the home

Most radon removal techniques use a method of permanently sealing the home against further radon gas entry. Newer homes may take time to settle and sealing should occur on a regular basis to prevent new infiltration of radon gas. Sealing usually occurs after a thorough pressurization or depressurization technique is used to remove as much gas as possible. This prevents trapping gas inside the home and reduces levels as low as possible.

Home pressurization and depressurization

Pressurization is a technique where fans are used to blow air from the lowest grades of the home to the upstairs or outside to develop a high enough pressure to create a vacuum. The vacuum prevents the radon from entering the home and allows more outdoor air to mitigate the effects of radon. Depressurization is a preventative technique. Air is removed from around the foundation to remove the gas before sealing. This is done beneath the slab of the home.

Ventilation

Using natural ventilation is something all homeowners can do to mitigate lower levels of radon gas in the home. Opening doors and windows will allow fresh air in and reduce radon gas in the home. Natural ventilation is a temporary fix and should only be used to mitigate gas levels until further work is done.

Material and Labor Costs

Fans

Ventilation fans are connected to ports and are a part of pressurized systems in the home. A typical fan is energy efficient and uses less work than a bathroom exhaust fan. The fans operate continuously to draw gas out of the home and slab. Vertical piping will need to be installed to allow condensation and gas to escape through the soil away from the foundation.

Sealed sump covers

A sealed sump pit may need to be installed to correct mitigation from the soil below the pit. Most sealed units provide a visual access to the pit via a clear shell. The entire shell is sealed tightly and weighted to handle weight loads. Removable ports are often added for accessing sump pump wiring or jumper pipes that may become clogged over time.

Air traps

Air traps are installed with additional plumbing labor to prevent air from coming upward near a drain pipe. Most drains that go directly into the soil are the sump pit and slab drains in garages and basements.

Crawl Spaces

Most crawl spaces do not have a slab underneath and open soil can allow radon gas to migrate into the living space. The extra costs associated with crawl spaces involve encapsulation and adding a barrier on the surface to prevent further infiltration. A 10 ml plastic membrane is usually a part of the encapsulation process. An exterior radon mitigation system uses a vent to draw gas up and out of the crawl space. This same system can also be used in an attic. There are extra costs associated with installed the right exhaust vent material for soil bare crawl spaces.

Gravel under slab

Gravel naturally allows radon gas to slowly leak into the interior. The naturally porous material of rock allows the gas to build up over time. As a result, a depressurization vent may need to be inserted within the slab at this point.

Finished lower levels

Finished basements will typically require additional labor to source the radon gas without damaging the finished space. Sump pits and other drain systems are used first as a source of testing. Pipe extensions and jumpers in the basement may need to be installed in connection to the perimeter drain tile system if the basement slab shares space with the garage. A jumper connects piping to the same mitigation system to keep a vacuum strong enough for venting.

Advantages & Disadvantages

Radon gas removal has considerably more advantages than disadvantages. The pros and cons depend on the technique used. Depressurization techniques work well as a beginning system to remove excess gas. Sub-soil and sub-slab depressurization remove trapped gas that exists directly under the floor of basements and crawlspaces. Drain tile depressurization also works well to remove gas trapped in water particles near the foundation coving. Pressurization techniques are ongoing and keep radon gas at bay without needing extra consultation.

However, testing can be difficult to measure in newer homes due to settling. The disadvantage of using depressurization includes additional labor if sealing doesn't create a strong suction point to remove gas. Pressurized systems require an adequate suction point that can be sealed. This requires careful planning and testing. A temporary reading may have a change in results. No two houses are alike and require testing for research.